Pain à la grecque

In my last post, I told you that we moved, and that we now have a garden, which I am sure will feature regularly in this blog. Another lovely part of the house, which by the way is late Victorian (1898),  is the kitchen. It has been extended and modernised over the years, but it still retains some Victorian charm. For the first few weeks, we were so busy that we hardly cooked. But time has now come to make something nicer.

I felt it would be proper to make something Greekish-themed: the Brussels delicacy that is pain à la grecque. This sweet bread actually has nothing to do with Greece.  “Grecque” stands for the word “grecht“, which in the Brussels dialect means “canal”. This is canal bread, perhaps because it can be kept on board barges.

The pain baking in our fancy (but only partially working) oven - I am not entirely sold to it.

The pain baking in our fancy (but only partially working) oven – I am not entirely sold to it.

I had never made pain à la grecque, but I rarely let such small challenges stop me. I could have used a modern recipe found on the Web,  but instead I referred to an old recipe book, which I inherited from my Belgian grandmother. Her best friend Ninette gave it to her to celebrate her 24th birthday in 1945. The book contains recipes ‘tried and tested’ by the students at the School of Housekeeping at the Institute Marie-Thérèse in Liege.  Interestingly, the School still exists, but no longer is a finishing institute for young ladies.

Now my Bonne Maman was not particularly interested in cooking and baking. The pristine state of this recipe book might be a testament to that. There are no annotations here, but there is a lovely dried edelweiss and some rose petals.

Big boy T and Little Boy G helped me make the bread. It is still rather challenging to get G (aged 4) involved, and T did lose his patience a few times, but we got there in the end. Our sweet bread was really tasty. Here is the adapted recipe. Do let me know if you try it and if you have suggestions for improvement.

Some of our pain ὰ la grecque cooling down. They don't look particularly pretty, but they are very tasty!

Some of our pain à la grecque cooling down

Pain à la grecque, slightly adapted from Recettes de cuisine expérimentées au Cours Supérieur de Travaux du Ménage et à l’Ecole Normale Ménagère (8th edition, Liège, 1945)

Ingredients:

  • 500 g of plain flour + extra flour for rolling
  • 10 g of dried yeast (more if you use fresh yeast)
  • 250 g of unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 5 g of cinnamon (a teaspoon)
  • 5 g of baking powder (a teaspoon)
  • 300 g of crystallised sugar (the traditional recipe requires white sugar, but I couldn’t find any, and used brown sugar crystals instead – worked a treat)
  • approximately 250 ml of milk (full fat of course) at room temperature
  1. Mix the yeast with a little bit of milk. Make a well in the middle of the flour. Pour the yeast mixture in the well. Mix the yeast mixture with a little flour and cover it with flour.
  2. Leave to rest. When the flour has become cracked, it is ready to be kneaded. I used an electric mixer, but this should be feasible by hand.
  3. While mixing, add the milk little by little. Then add the butter little by little. Then add the cinnamon and the baking powder. If the mixture is too dry, add some milk. The dough should be firm.
  4. Leave to rise for at least two hours.
  5. Divide the dough into balls of 50 g each.
  6. For each ball, use a pinch of flour and a spoonful of crystallised sugar. Work the flour and the sugar into the ball. Roll the ball into a sausage of approximately 20 cm. Cut the sausage in two. Flatten it onto a non-stick cooking sheet.
  7. Cook the bread in a moderate oven (gas mark 7) for approximately 20 minutes. The bread is ready when it is golden.
  8. Leave to cool on a rack.
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